The Porto Test

I went to Porto in June 2026 for a long weekend. I wanted to get a feel for the city and the country of Portugal as a whole before actually picking up and moving my entire life there. It did not go as planned.

So why Porto?

Shortly after deciding in February of 2026 that Portugal was the country I wanted to emigrate to, the next step was deciding…where in Portugal?? I turned to ChatGPT for some help.

I put in the criteria that was most important to me: walkability because I did not want a car, close to water, decent-sized American expat community, lower cost of living, and a good-sized city where I would see people out and about regularly. The answer pointed to one city above all others – Porto.   

As I researched Porto more, I got really excited. The view at sunset from Villa Nova de Gaia, across the Douro River, looking toward Porto was breathtaking. Being so close to both the Douro and the Atlantic Ocean was perfect. I found that Porto can be a little colder and rainy in the winter months, but that didn’t dissuade me.

The cobblestone streets of Ribeira

I live in Louisville, KY, now and to me, it felt like Lisbon is to Porto the way Lexington is to Louisville. Lexington is the smaller cousin to Louisville. Lisbon felt a little too big for me, so I thought a slightly smaller (and slightly cheaper!) city would be best.

I’m not one to belabor a decision (sometimes to my detriment). So, I decided then and there! Porto it will be.

Get out of the hotel already!

So here is where things got tricky. I had Porto as the destination for my new home decided by April. My hope was to move by September. But did I really want to move all that way without ever having laid eyes on the place?? Believe me, I was tempted.

With airline points and hotel discounts applied, I decided a weekend in Porto in June would help me know if this city could become my home.

As I sat in the back seat of the Uber from the airport in Porto to the hotel, I looked out the window as the city came into view. Someone I met recently who lived part-time in Portugal described Porto as gritty. I didn’t like that description at all. But as I checked out my surroundings during that 20-minute ride, I could see what she meant. I saw graffiti on buildings and a few rundown homes. We were on the highway for most of the drive, so I didn’t see much in the way of neighborhoods. Mostly commercial buildings and asphalt.

I arrived at the Sheraton, located in the western part of Porto, in the Boavista business district. The hotel staff was very friendly, and the hotel was beautiful.

I went up to my room, and that’s when a weird thing happened. I didn’t want to leave. I didn’t want to go back out. Should I take a little nap after that long red eye flight? Maybe I’ll just rest a few minutes. Hmm, what kind of movies do they have on the hotel TV?

Two hours later, after lying in bed, staring at the ceiling, I literally forced myself out of bed. I said, out loud, GET UP. It occurred to me then what this reluctance was all about. Since the Uber, I had been feeling the weight of this decision on me.

This was no longer a theory. No longer a dream or fantasy. I was taking a physical step forward in my decision, and it scared the crap out of me.

Before I left the hotel room, I took several deep breaths and reminded myself that nothing is permanent. I don’t HAVE to do or decide anything. I can change my mind at any time. I left the hotel.

Seeing Porto as a local

There was one thing I wanted to focus on during this weekend in Porto. I wanted to experience it like a local would, not as a tourist. Yes, I definitely wanted to see the beach and the city center along the Douro, but I also wanted to see how it would feel to sit at a café and order breakfast, and how easy it was to visit the Continente and decide on grocery choices.

But what did I want to do more than anything? Walk.

And walk I did. I averaged about 7 miles a day over the next 3 days. More often than not, I walked with no destination in mind. If you want to get a feel for a city, WALK IT. Walk the crowded streets in the city center, walk the parks and the alleyways. As I walked, I asked myself, do I feel safe? And the answer was, at no time did I feel unsafe or wary of my surroundings.

And here is the more important thing: I stopped seeing graffiti and construction. Sure, it’s there – it’s a large city. But what I saw instead were the gorgeous azulejos, the brilliant Portuguese tiles all over the city. The traditional cobalt blue and white tiles, yes, but also the green tiles, the patterned ones. There were tiles that covered entire walls of a building inside and out like the São Bento train station. But also, look fast or you may miss one of the small azulejos that depict the Virgin Mary (Our Lady of Fátima) on the walled entrance to a home.

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When it was time for meals, I mostly chose cafés and restaurants off the beaten path. These would be the places I would visit regularly if I lived here. How much is an espresso (the go-to coffee choice in Porto) and a pastel de nata (please take note: THESE ARE A MUST!!)? Do the waiters and cashiers speak English, and do they smile when I speak my few words of Portuguese?

Now, don’t get me wrong, I was not going to miss some of the big touristy areas of Porto while I was there. I was SO EXCITED to see the famous double-deck Dom Luis Bridge that spans the Douro River and sit at a beachside restaurant in Foz do Douro, drinking a glass of vinho verde (Portugal’s famous green wine). I made time for both and was in awe of just how gorgeous both Ribeira, the city center, and Foz do Douro were.

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As the weekend came to a close, I sat down with a notebook and asked myself several questions: Does the city’s energy match mine? Can I see myself building a life here, making friends here? What worries me about living here? Can I learn the language? Will I miss the conveniences that I now enjoy in America? Can I build a career here?

And this is the big one: If my visa were approved tomorrow and an apartment were waiting for me in Porto, would I feel excited or hesitant?

So...would I move to Porto?

That time I stayed overly long in my hotel seemed very distant when I sat on a stone bench two nights later in the middle of the Praça de Guilherme Gomes Fernandes, a historic public square in the city center.

I Face Timed my son as people milled about, some singing and celebrating because Brazil had just beat Japan in a World Cup match. As soon as he answered the phone, I burst into tears. Because I knew. I knew I had made my decision.

Future looks bright

THERESA’S PORTO PICKS:

Eat: Pastel de nata

Restaurant: Praia da Luz

See: Dom Luis Bridge

Do: Livraria Lello

Would you like a copy of the Checklist I created for my trip to Porto?

This checklist isn’t really about Porto. It’s about figuring out whether a place could become your home. Reply “CHECKLIST” in the comment section, and I’ll send it to you!

For my next post: Now that I have decided to move to Porto...which visa do I apply for?? Find out next time!